plant propagation: from seed to established seedling.

01 / the guide

seed, cutting or division: which method fits?

propagation means making new plants. seed propagation grows a new individual; vegetative methods use parts of an existing plant. the method needs to suit the species and what you want to preserve.

for familiar climbing houseplants, a suitable cutting can be a more practical starting point than searching for seed. for a tray of basil or tomatoes, seed gives you access to named varieties and an organised batch. neither approach is automatically better; match it to the plant and your goal.

choosing a growing environment? our soil vs water propagation guide for seeds, bulbs and cuttings compares practical starting methods, with separate instructions for growing hyacinths and paperwhite bulbs in water.

02 / the guide

the seven stages of raising a plant from seed.

move between stages when the plant is ready, rather than on a universal timetable. fast-germinating salad crops and slower herbs can share a project, but they should not be forced through each stage together.

the early root is called the radicle. the seed leaves are cotyledons; they are not the same as the later true leaves. the seed's initial reserves support early growth, while the developing leaves and roots begin to support the growing plant. ^{[1] [12]}

03 / the guide

stage 1: choose seeds for the space you actually have.

plan the mature plant before you sow the seed. a small cell can start a tomato, but it cannot accommodate a mature tomato plant. choose a variety whose eventual size, light needs and climate fit its destination. ^[3]

1. read the packet. record the species and variety, sowing depth, temperature or seasonal guidance, expected germination window and any special treatment.
2. choose the final destination. indoor pot, outdoor container or garden bed? decide how much space you can provide after the first few weeks.
3. work backwards. use the local transplanting window and the variety's suggested indoor lead time. do not start early unless you can provide adequate light and space while waiting.
4. use a manageable batch. a few well-observed cells are more useful than a full tray with nowhere to go.
5. label immediately. include the variety and sowing date; keep the packet for comparison.

in australia, climate zone and local conditions matter more than a single national planting month. overseas guides are useful for technique, but their spring calendars may be six months away from yours and their frost patterns may be different. use a locally appropriate seed packet or local horticultural advice for timing.

04 / the guide

how do different seeds need to be started?

seed size, light response, temperature and tolerance of root disturbance all affect the method. the comparisons below are starting points. the instructions for the actual variety take priority, including whether seed has already been treated.

a practical grouping rule: put seeds with similar temperature, moisture and emergence needs together. if one cell emerges much earlier, it may need a different position while the others are still germinating. removable cells make that adjustment possible; separate ordinary pots can do the same job.

05 / the guide

do seeds need soaking, scarification or chilling?

only give a pre-treatment when the seed's instructions call for it. many common packet seeds can be sown directly. treating everything alike can reduce, rather than improve, your chances.

• soaking supplies water before sowing. use the duration specified for that seed; prolonged soaking can reduce oxygen availability and encourage deterioration.
• scarification weakens a hard seed coat so water can enter. use a method appropriate to the identified species and avoid damaging the embryo.
• stratification supplies a controlled period of moist cold, warmth or a sequence of temperatures to address dormancy. a dry packet in a fridge is not automatically the treatment required.

follow a reliable species protocol for temperature, moisture and duration, and check whether the supplier has already treated the seed. native species may have specialised requirements; do not improvise boiling-water, chemical or smoke treatments from a generic list. ^[18]

seed preparation also differs between suppliers and varieties. for example, yates' general seed-raising guidance advises against pre-soaking its listed large seeds such as peas and beans. that is a useful reason to read your own packet before applying a social-media shortcut. ^[16]

06 / the guide

stage 2: prepare the cells and sow carefully.

aim for clean equipment, a suitable seed-raising mix and even moisture. ordinary garden soil is a poor default for a small indoor seed cell: its texture and disease load can make conditions harder to control. ^{[1] [2]}

1. prepare the container. use clean cells or pots with drainage suited to soil growing. remove old roots and residue. follow the container manufacturer's compatible cleaning instructions.
2. prepare the medium. use fresh, fine seed-raising mix suited to the crop. pre-moisten as directed so it is evenly damp, not a slurry.
3. fill without compressing hard. settle the mix gently and leave a little space for controlled watering.
4. sow at the packet depth. use a shallow depression for a covered seed; press light-requiring seed onto the surface as directed. do not bury tiny seeds under a generic centimetre of mix.
5. water gently. a fine rose, careful mist for the seed surface, or monitored bottom uptake can avoid moving the seeds. let excess drain.
6. label and place. record the date, then provide the species' germination temperature and light or darkness requirement.

pelleted seed, fine seed and large seed can require different handling. sowing depth is not a test of how firmly you can tuck the seed in. the shoot must still reach the surface, and any light-requiring seed must receive the conditions it needs. ^[12]

07 / the guide

stage 3: manage the conditions while the seed germinates.

a germinating seed needs water, oxygen and a suitable temperature; some also need a particular light condition. a constantly flooded seed zone can fail even when warmth is correct. ^{[6] [12]}

check the actual medium, not just the room thermostat. a sunny sill can become hot during the day and cold overnight. use a seed-compatible heat mat only if needed, with appropriate temperature control and the equipment's instructions. a warm-season crop and a cool-season crop may need separate positions.

keep moisture consistent at the seed's depth. surface-sown seeds are especially exposed to drying, while a large buried seed can remain wet below a dry-looking surface. add water in response to the medium rather than because no shoot has appeared yet.

a clear cover can reduce moisture loss during germination, but it is optional equipment, not a guarantee. check it frequently, avoid overheating in direct sun and prepare to remove it as seedlings emerge. the still six-cell propagation station does not include a humidity dome.

if nothing appears: compare the elapsed time with the packet, verify temperature and sowing depth, and reconsider seed viability or dormancy before changing the setup. digging up the whole batch every day can damage the earliest roots. keep one spare test cell if you want a separate observation point.

08 / the guide

stage 4: change the routine as soon as shoots emerge.

emerged seedlings need suitable light and ventilation promptly. leaving them in the warm, enclosed conditions used for germination can produce weak growth or encourage disease. remove a germination cover as appropriate and avoid moving a tender seedling straight into harsh sun. ^[20]

a bright-looking room is not necessarily bright enough at leaf level. if using a grow light, about 12-16 hours per day is a common seedling starting point in extension guidance, with a daily dark period. lamp distance and intensity depend on the fixture: use its instructions rather than copying a fixed distance intended for fluorescent tubes. ^[20]

look for compact growth, developing leaves and a stable stem. long, pale stems leaning towards the window suggest that you should review light before adding fertiliser. keep leaves from touching a hot lamp, and adjust the growing position as seedlings get taller.

check small cells frequently. their roots have access to little water, and a warm position can dry them quickly. water gently enough to avoid flattening the seedlings, then drain. provide gentle air movement without a strong draught that dries the cells rapidly.

light quality and quantity affect how a seedling grows. pale leaves and widely spaced growth can signal too little usable light, while scorched patches can indicate excessive exposure. review the growing position before assuming every change in leaf colour is a feeding issue. ^[19]

09 / the guide

stage 5: true leaves, thinning and the first feed.

true leaves signal a change in the plant's development, not an automatic requirement for a strong feed. check whether the seed mix already contains nutrients. seedlings in a fertilised medium may not need extra feeding yet. ^{[7] [21]}

if several seedlings occupy a cell intended for one plant, select a healthy, well-positioned seedling. snipping the unwanted seedlings at mix level can avoid pulling on the retained plant's roots. crops deliberately grown in small clumps are an exception; follow the crop's spacing guidance. ^[2]

where feeding is needed, use a product suitable for seedlings and its specified dilution. a mature-plant dose can be excessive. do not try to correct stretched growth, saturated roots or a dry cell with more fertiliser. fix the growing conditions first. ^[21]

learn the difference between the first seed leaves and the developing true leaves, then observe the whole plant. the normal ageing of an early seed leaf is different from new growth becoming pale, distorted or progressively weaker. record when you feed so that another household member does not repeat it.

10 / the guide

stage 6: when and how should you pot on?

pot on when the seedling is manageable and needs more root space, before it becomes severely crowded. roots beginning to hold the plug together, increasing leaf size and a cell drying unusually quickly are useful prompts to inspect it. no single leaf count fits every crop. ^[2]

1. prepare the next pot and suitable growing mix before lifting the plant.
2. moisten a dry plug enough to handle it without crumbling or flooding it.
3. ease the plug out while supporting the roots. when separating seedlings, handle by a leaf rather than crushing the fragile stem.
4. place at the depth appropriate to the crop. keep the original level unless reliable crop-specific instructions say otherwise.
5. settle the mix gently, water to establish contact and let it drain.
6. return to suitable light and shelter, then monitor moisture in both the original plug and the surrounding new mix.

tomatoes can be planted more deeply in suitable circumstances; that is not a rule for every seedling. avoid burying the crowns of unrelated crops simply to hide a long stem. plants such as carrots are better directed to a sow-in-place method from the start. ^{[9] [17]}

choose a proportionate next pot rather than making the largest possible jump. a small rooted plug inside a large volume of wet mix can be harder to manage. keep the label with the plant, and update its new pot size in your notes.

as an indoor plant establishes in its next pot, our watering and drainage guide explains root-zone moisture, watering methods and runoff. keep using the stage-specific guidance above for germinating seeds and tiny cells.

for the next container setup, see our repotting guide's notes on seedlings and newly rooted plants. it distinguishes gentle potting on from handling a root-bound adult, then explains pot choice, drainage and care as an indoor plant establishes.

11 / the guide

stage 7: harden off and help the young plant establish.

hardening off is a gradual introduction to outdoor conditions. allow roughly one to two weeks as a planning window, adapting to the crop, weather and response. start in a sheltered, shaded position for short periods, then increase exposure gradually. ^[3]

bring tender plants back into protection when temperatures or wind are unsuitable. extend time outdoors and sunlight in steps; do not use severe wilting as a training method. delay planting if the weather turns hostile. a plant grown under lights has not automatically adapted to direct outdoor sun.

when the site and weather are suitable, plant at the correct spacing and depth, water in, and inspect the root zone during establishment. growth may pause during adjustment. judge progress by condition and new growth rather than expecting an immediate surge.

a plant staying indoors does not need an outdoor hardening-off schedule, but it can still need a gradual move to a brighter window or different room. the transition should suit the destination. keep seedlings away from the extremes of hot glass, strong air-conditioning flow or an exposed balcony.

12 / the guide

seedling problems: what should you check first?

damping off is not ordinary thirst. fungal and water-mould pathogens can attack seeds and young seedlings, sometimes before emergence. avoid sharing irrigation water from an affected tray. use fresh medium, clean equipment and conditions that support prompt growth; do not rely on a home remedy to rescue collapsed seedlings. ^[21]

cleaning removes dirt; sanitising addresses microorganisms. they are not interchangeable. follow a method compatible with the container. for still's petg propagation equipment, do not use bleach, boiling water or a dishwasher. if disease has occurred, seek a compatible sanitation method before reusing that equipment; routine mild-soap washing should not be described as sterilisation.

13 / tools for the task

a small propagation setup, with room to adjust.

a few draining pots and labels can start a useful batch. if you prefer individual cups in one organised station, this is where still's propagation station fits. it is sold by still.

six-cell propagation station.

useful for: a small, labelled batch of seeds whose progress you want to follow individually. six removable cups let you lift and move a developing plant without lifting every other cup.

choose either the soil or hydro cup format. the selected setup includes the station, six cups, six rewritable labels and matching starter soil or hydro nutrient. it does not include both cup formats or a humidity dome.

for the soil-based stages in this guide, choose the soil format. check drainage and moisture in each cup, then move plants on when their roots need space. use the hydro format only with an appropriate hydroponic routine; roots still require oxygen, and the correct water level depends on that system. ^[22]

the limit: the station does not supply seed-specific warmth, light or an unlimited growing space. it cannot guarantee germination. large or rapidly developing seedlings may need to move on early, and a crop better sown in its final position may not need the station at all.

compare the propagation station formats

a simple batch plan: start one suitable variety across the cups so the conditions can remain consistent. label every cup and record emergence separately. if you want to compare varieties, group similar requirements and keep the comparison small enough to manage.

rinse with cool or lukewarm water and mild soap as needed, then rinse and dry before storage. follow current product care guidance. keep the labels with the correct plants as you move them into their next pots.

14 / the guide

a useful seedling check takes observations, not guesses.

• before sowing: packet instructions saved, destination planned, containers clean and labelled.
• while waiting: moisture and temperature checked, with the expected germination window recorded.
• at first emergence: cover reviewed, light ready and tiny cells monitored.
• at true leaves: crowding and nutrients assessed, without automatic overfeeding.
• as roots develop: next pots ready and crop-specific transplanting method checked.
• before the final move: weather and destination suitable; outdoor plants acclimatised gradually.

keep a short record for the next batch: variety, sowing date, first emergence, number emerged, first potting-on date and one thing you would change. if only two of six cups succeed, the notes can help separate a seed problem from a light, water or temperature problem. change one controllable factor at a time.

15 / questions

plant propagation questions, answered.